I built three single seat black aircraft and used them to test paint chipping techniques. This one is the Hasegawa Spitfire Vb Night Fighter and my chipping method of choice was to use salt masking over aluminum Alclad before black paint.
Much like the Bf-109E in the previous post this kit was built straight from the box. The kit went together well with very little fitting, sanding, and filling required.
This kit like the other two was given a coat of primer straight from the can. You can see here how rough that turned out to be. My previous post discusses the primer choices. You can also see where I didn’t quite sand out the wing root – needed to be fixed.
After priming, areas of Alclad aluminum were sprayed on the kit. I like using Alcad because it’s thin and it’s tough.
The kit is then coated a small area at a time (preferably where the Alclad is!) with water and Morton Kosher salt is sprinkled on the water. Wherever the water is the salt sticks. While still relatively wet the salt can be pushed around with the same brush I used to apply the water. I applied more heavily in the areas of the wing root as you can see in the shot.
The aircraft is then given a coat of black paint. I used the same Scalecoat used in the previous post as well as following on with streaking using ever lightened colors of black to produce a weathered look.
The salt is then brushed away with a stiff brush and ta-da paint chipping. After a coat of Future floor polish, the decals were then applied. I normally use Solvaset decal solvent on my decals and I really sweated this one out as you can see it wrinkled the marking up and it wasn’t un-wrinkling very fast. It took a lot of Solvaset to make the decal finally sit down. I think the Solvaset slightly remelts the Future and the Future sets back up before the decal has worked through the setting process.
I think I could have done a better job at arranging the salt crystals to make it look more organized. As put on the chipping was rather random except for the wing root area. But after a blast of Testors dullcoat, the kit actually came out looking quite nice.
What did I learn;
- The salt method is easy to see where to put the salt on silver. The next method documented (hairspray)requires you remember where the Alclad is or paint it all Alclad)
- Organize the salt better, maybe along panel lines. The salt works pretty good and produces pretty good results (see hairspray in next post!)
- Find a different way to set Hasegawa decals. The Solvaset works well on the OWL decals I have been using but might be a bit too strong for the Future/Stock decal mix
- Drop using Rust-oleum primer
Thanks for your interest!
Up and running in in the shop again. Decided to build three single-seat all black night fighters from Hasegawa.
The main objective here is to practice different methods of chipping the camouflage paint. I intend to try the hairspray, salt, and masking solutions and see which one works great.
All kits are being built out of the box and will use the kit decals.
I’ve got the bases of most of them done, time to mask the canopies and attach in preparation for priming.
A quick update on the Bf-110s;
They have decals and I have started weathering.
For weathering both have a blue and green oil dot filters applied. It didn’t look that well on the black but highlighted the RML76 on the gray 110 well.
I tried a light gray wash on the Black one and then streaked it with white oil paint. I still need to do a bit more airbrush streaking with various black/gray shades.
On a side note, I counted my shades of gray and only have 19. I’m not sure what that guy with 50 shades is modeling.
The RLM 76 oversprayed kit was given a pin wash of dark gray then subtly filter washed with burnt sienna to give it a slightly “dirty” shade. I will need to do more weathering in the next few days while I finish landing gear and other parts that need to be added.
Decals are from OWL (72013); same sheet for both kits. The sheet also contains complete markings for a Bf-110G4 and I’m tempted to get the Eduard overtree for that kit and build it with my Hasegawa Me-262B to finish off the summer of Messerschmitts.
The F4U-5N is done and on the shelf! Finished up her landing gear and stores last night and antenna and a few last tweeks tonight.
What did I learn from this build?
- Dialed back the salt weathering a bit on this and it doesn’t look bad
- Used micromask and salt paint chipping on one of the fuel tanks to look like it’s lost a lot of paint and that turned out well
- Used one color engine black paint and with weathering the color looks pretty good. I used a multi-black approach on the P-61 earlier and I think the single color did okay
- I discovers that a raw umber wash on flat black doesn’t show up
- I tried a white oil paint wash to lighten up the upper surfaces and sun fade the topsides and after the Testor’s Dullcoat it turned out okay
- Don’t use the really runny super glue straight from the bottle 🙂 I tried to quickly fix the antenna and the glue ran down the side of the airplane, requiring a quick paint touch up!
Here are some finished shots for my 5th model this year. Getting a bit behind the two models a month quest!
Gosh it’s been awhile since I posted. I’ve been working steadily on the F4U, sometimes only 30 minutes at a shot but I am making progress (and on the Kingfisher too!).
After painting it black I put a couple of coats of Future on the kit in preparation for decals. I usually hand brush the Future since I haven’t had good results with the airbrush. Maybe someday I’ll get that process down but the hand brushing seems to work, I just have to make sure I work the bubbles out of the coat. Time for the decals..
After putting on the decals it was time to grub it up a bit. This time I worked in three filter washes. First was my usual wash of raw umber thinned down and coated over most of the aircraft. I’m not sure what effect it has on an all black aircraft as it wasn’t as apparent as it usually is.
Next I applied a couple of shade of blue and did a dot wash. This is where you take a dot of oil paint (just the touch of a toothpick) and then use a brush filled with thinner to spread it around in just one are of the model. The idea is to break up the monotone color. I just used blue this time to kind of blue up the black paint.
Finally I have been pondering how to get a faded look for an aircraft that spent a lot of time sitting in the sun. I used my oil filter wash by putting some streaks of white oil pint on the kit and then gradually spreading it out and removing some with a thinner soaked brush. The idea was to streak wash the kit so it not only faded but had the effect of weather running down the sides. The photo look like I did too much but as you will see when I finish with pastels and overcoat the effect is more subtle.
The it was time for pastels. Various shades of grey from a dark charcoal to a light great were applied randomly around the frame. I also used a few shades of brown along where pilots and mechanics would walk, as well as around the lower part of the aircraft subject to ground dirt.
Last a coat of Testors Dullcoat, which does a good job of darkening and dampening down the effects of the weathering a bit.
And here she is waiting for the final attachment of sub assemblies.
I haven’t posted for a bit. I’ve been busy with many of the other spare time hats I wear and kind of fell of the attempt to build two kits per month. Here is is the end of April and I’ve only popped out four kits and the two I’ve been working on get a little attention here and there.
I’m in the painting stage of my F4U-5N. This is going into a Korean bird all black camouflage. I bought the Montex set to do this with red markings but that’s a Navy bird and since the son is in the Marines I’ve decided to do the Marine markings on the Eagle Strike Corsairs over Korea Part 1.
I am trying the salt paint chipping strategy on this one. I used it previously on a P-61 I painted all black (see earlier posts) but felt I over did it. We are trying to be more subtle this time.
I painted the plane Floquil Bright Silver as a base. Last time I used a duller Aluminium and it didn’t show as well so we will see how well the bright color work. Then salt is then applied by putting water with a drop of detergent down in key spot, shake salt on it, and carefully move the salt around and with a small brush. Where the salt went down heavy I knock a bunch off as opposed to leaving it like I did on the P-61.
Next a lot of black spraying. I used Scalecoat Engine Black and it went on very well. This paint is supposed to be a Floquil replacement for railroad modelers and I like the way it performed tonight. Here are a few shots of the finished paint on the kit.
In a couple of spots I have knocked off the salt to see what it look like.
And finally, when your all done and the airbrush is cleaned, now is the time to find out you missed the back of the bird. I’ll have to fire up the black blaster the next session.
Actually this should have been the last kit of 2014. I’ve been working on this kit since August of last year with a long period over the late summer and early fall where it sat idle.
I bought this kit on eBay many moons ago and I found a couple of parts missing. I’m not saying the seller lost them as this kit has been rattling around in my stash in a rough box without plastic bags for years. But I had to fabricate one of the small flaps from scratch.
On this kit I used or tried the following (* = first time);
- *All black camo (I think I painted a P-38 all black in my youth)
- *Using salt to create paint chipping
- *Loan Star Models resin cockpit
- True details wheels
- *Scalecoat and True-color paints
- Rescribed the whole thing (resribeaholic)
- *Kitsworld decals
I can’t believe how big this thing is on my shelf, and putting it next to the Bf-109e I am building really shows it’s size. It would barely fit in my paint booth.
I wanted to have a Black Widow since I first saw one as a kid. Great modeling experience – I am satisfied with the result.