I built three single seat black aircraft and used them to test paint chipping techniques. This one is the Hasegawa Spitfire Vb Night Fighter and my chipping method of choice was to use salt masking over aluminum Alclad before black paint.
Much like the Bf-109E in the previous post this kit was built straight from the box. The kit went together well with very little fitting, sanding, and filling required.
This kit like the other two was given a coat of primer straight from the can. You can see here how rough that turned out to be. My previous post discusses the primer choices. You can also see where I didn’t quite sand out the wing root – needed to be fixed.
After priming, areas of Alclad aluminum were sprayed on the kit. I like using Alcad because it’s thin and it’s tough.
The kit is then coated a small area at a time (preferably where the Alclad is!) with water and Morton Kosher salt is sprinkled on the water. Wherever the water is the salt sticks. While still relatively wet the salt can be pushed around with the same brush I used to apply the water. I applied more heavily in the areas of the wing root as you can see in the shot.
The aircraft is then given a coat of black paint. I used the same Scalecoat used in the previous post as well as following on with streaking using ever lightened colors of black to produce a weathered look.
The salt is then brushed away with a stiff brush and ta-da paint chipping. After a coat of Future floor polish, the decals were then applied. I normally use Solvaset decal solvent on my decals and I really sweated this one out as you can see it wrinkled the marking up and it wasn’t un-wrinkling very fast. It took a lot of Solvaset to make the decal finally sit down. I think the Solvaset slightly remelts the Future and the Future sets back up before the decal has worked through the setting process.
I think I could have done a better job at arranging the salt crystals to make it look more organized. As put on the chipping was rather random except for the wing root area. But after a blast of Testors dullcoat, the kit actually came out looking quite nice.
What did I learn;
- The salt method is easy to see where to put the salt on silver. The next method documented (hairspray)requires you remember where the Alclad is or paint it all Alclad)
- Organize the salt better, maybe along panel lines. The salt works pretty good and produces pretty good results (see hairspray in next post!)
- Find a different way to set Hasegawa decals. The Solvaset works well on the OWL decals I have been using but might be a bit too strong for the Future/Stock decal mix
- Drop using Rust-oleum primer
Thanks for your interest!