Marine Corsair

Finally, another kit completed this year.  That makes 3 this year.  Normally I build 7 – 8 per year but my Boy Scout hours and other things have kept my modeling hours short.

I finished a Tamiya F4U-2 on the heels of the Monogram TBD I documented in a previous post.  This kit had some interesting challenges.

I built this kit once before many moons ago and it went together like a dream.  I decided to use a True Details resin cockpit on this kit and in my mind, it wasn’t that much of an improvement over the kit parts, and the trouble I had putting it in even detracted a bit from the overall completion.

Here are some comparisons between the kit and resin.  Other than the built-in seatbelts in the resin (which are out of scale), I think the Tamiya cockpit had crisper detail.

I also had a wild hair about using hairspray to do the chipping.  This had worked wonderfully on a previous build (see https://dlloseke.wordpress.com/2017/09/09/hasegawa-hurricane-mk-iic-night-hurricane/ ) but I had a couple of problems with this.

First, the original build was a single color aircraft.  To use the hairspray you paint the kit the chipping color (silver here) and then cover it with hairspray.  You then paint a water-based paint (I use Vallejo) and by wetting the paint before it is fully dry use a stiff paintbrush or toothpick to remove the chips (the hairspray “melts” under the top coat and allows the paint to be removed.

With the tricolor of the Corsair, I had to create multiple layers of paint which then were harder to remove.  Spraying the Vallejo too heavy in certain areas caused the hiarspray to melt under the wetness of the paint.  I think I overdid the chipping.

Two other issues; 1) if you are not careful the brush will remove a big chunk of paint all at once – oops, and 2) the Vallejo Sea Blue color did not cover the silver very well in thin coats which gave me more of a dark metallic blue top coat than the weathered flat sea blue I was trying for.

Finally, after decals,  the kit received an oil dot filter coat of paint and then my standard raw umber panel line was to grub it up.  Once dry that was followed by various pastel highlights to finish the weathering.

I enjoyed the Tamiya kit!

Next up, on to the desert!  Maybe I can get a couple more done before the end of the year!

Messerschmitts decalled and started weathering

A quick update on the Bf-110s;

They have decals and I have started weathering.

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For weathering both have a blue and green oil dot filters applied.  It didn’t look that well on the black but highlighted the RML76 on the gray 110 well.

I tried a light gray wash on the Black one and then streaked it with white oil paint.  I still need to do a bit more airbrush streaking with various black/gray shades.

On a side note, I counted my shades of gray and only have 19.  I’m not sure what that guy with 50 shades is modeling.

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The RLM 76 oversprayed kit was given a pin wash of dark gray then subtly filter washed with burnt sienna to give it a slightly “dirty” shade.  I will need to do more weathering in the next few days while I finish landing gear and other parts that need to be added.

Decals are from OWL (72013); same sheet for both kits.  The sheet also contains complete markings for a Bf-110G4 and I’m tempted to get the Eduard overtree for that kit and build it with my Hasegawa Me-262B to finish off the summer of Messerschmitts.

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The Monogram Kingfisher is mostly done

I’ve been plugging away at this kit.  For a model that took me less than an hour to build when I was 13 it has provided many more hours of hobby time in my later years.

Below are a few shots;

Its been painted, paint chipped, has filter washes applied, white sun beaching wash and streaking, pastels to lighted and darken and add rust, and Testors dull coat.

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All that needs to be done it to vacu-form a thinner rear middle canopy so that I can slide it open inside the monogram one.  At this point, I will put the gun ring and rear gun left to complete, the antenna, and gun sight.  I’m also making a beach base for it to sit in. More on that later.

Took out the old trusty Mattel Vac-u-form tonight.  I think I’ve had this for 50 years and I still use it once in awhile to make thinner canopies.  How it works is you heat up a clear sheet of plastic in the heating chamber and once soft, flip it over the original and start manually pumping a vacuum handle which pulls down the clear over the mold and sucks it down.  The heating element either doesn’t get fully hot enough in the time from of my patience or it’s old so I augment the heating of the plastic with my mini soldering torch to make the plastic softer.

I also vacu-formed the thick clear canopy for the Monogram Bf-110 I am building so it will be thin enough to cut open.

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Kingfisher weathering and old Bf-110 meets new digs

A quick update on the Kingfisher.  After adding paint chipping by hand I added blue/teal/green filter washes over the upper surfaces.  Filter washes as discussed before start with very small dots of oil paint which is then spread around the surface in a small area with turpentine and excess whisked away with a brush.  It breaks up the painted surface.

Here are a few pictures.  Next step is to do the same with small dots of white to fade the upper surface and add a sun weathered appearance.

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Next I have been spending some time taking a cockpit from and Eduard Bf-110 and converting it into a old Monogram Bf-110.  I was amazed how well it fit.  Here is what the cokpit from 1967 would look like if I built the kit almost 50 years ago…

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And today I have put the Eduard cockpit into the kit and I am amazed at how well it fit.  I haven’t closed up the Monogram kit yet but will do that later this evening!

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After this, complete gluing the wings of the Monogram kit to the fuselage and I’ll have two kits to paint black; one modern, one from yesteryear.

ProModeler F4U-5N (Korean night fighter)

The F4U-5N is done and on the shelf!  Finished up her landing gear and stores last night and antenna and a few last tweeks tonight.

What did I learn from this build?

  • Dialed back the salt weathering a bit on this and it doesn’t look bad
  • Used micromask and salt paint chipping on one of the fuel tanks to look like it’s lost a lot of paint and that turned out well
  • Used one color engine black paint and with weathering the color looks pretty good.  I used a multi-black approach on the P-61 earlier and I think the single color did okay
  • I discovers that a raw umber wash on flat black doesn’t show up
  • I tried a white oil paint wash to lighten up the upper surfaces and sun fade the topsides and after the Testor’s Dullcoat it turned out okay
  • Don’t use the really runny super glue straight from the bottle 🙂  I tried to quickly fix the antenna and the glue ran down the side of the airplane, requiring a quick paint touch up!

Here are some finished shots for my 5th model this year.  Getting a bit behind the two models a month quest!

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ProModeler F4U-5N in final stages

Gosh it’s been awhile since I posted.  I’ve been working steadily on the F4U, sometimes only 30 minutes at a shot but I am making progress (and on the Kingfisher too!).

After painting it black I put a couple of coats of Future on the kit in preparation for decals.  I usually hand brush the Future since I haven’t had good results with the airbrush.  Maybe someday I’ll get that process down but the hand brushing seems to work, I just have to make sure I work the bubbles out of the coat.  Time for  the decals..

 

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After putting on the decals it was time to grub it up a bit.  This time I worked in three filter washes.  First was my usual wash of raw umber thinned down and coated over most of the aircraft.  I’m not sure what effect it has on an all black aircraft as it wasn’t as apparent as it usually is.

Next I applied a couple of shade of blue and did a dot wash.  This is where you take a dot of oil paint (just the touch of a toothpick) and then use a brush filled with thinner to spread it around in just one are of the model.  The idea is to break up the monotone color.  I just used blue this time to kind of blue up the black paint.

Finally I have been pondering how to get a faded look for an aircraft that spent a lot of time sitting in the sun.  I used my oil filter wash by putting some streaks of white oil pint on the kit and then gradually spreading it out and removing some with a thinner soaked brush.  The idea was to streak wash the kit so it not only faded but had the effect of weather running down the sides.  The photo look like I did too much but as you will see when I finish with pastels and overcoat the effect is more subtle.

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The it was time for pastels.  Various shades of grey from a dark charcoal to a light great were applied randomly around the frame.  I also used a few shades of brown along where pilots and mechanics would walk, as well as around the lower part of the aircraft subject to ground dirt.

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Last a coat of Testors Dullcoat, which does a good job of darkening and dampening down the effects of the weathering a bit.

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And here she is waiting for the final attachment of sub assemblies.

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Weathering time

Time to start weathering the Bf-109.  Not quite sure exactly what I’m going to do yet but as I always do, start with a sludge wash on burnt umber.

Make a wash of burnt umber oil paint and odorless mineral spirits, apply liberally, and after I let it sit (while I airbrushed the F-84 cockpit) wipe it away with a clean cloth in the direction of airflow.  Seems pretty simple…

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The two issues I had were the one part that never made it to future coating had the paint wiped away at the same time and I broke off one of the slats holding it by the wing.

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I think next up is going to be some oil dot weathering then I need to figure out a way to “bleach” the upper surfaces since the real thing was parked in the desert sun most of the time.

Stay tuned..

P-61 covered in future and ready for decals

A couple of coats of Future are upon the black beauty and I will start decaling tomorrow.  I bought a set of Kit’s World Decals to try, going for the “Night Take-off” pin-up on the nose.  The Kit’s World Decals did not come with any national insignia or stencils so we are going to see how well these old Monogram decals do.

After decaling and another shot of future we are going to apply some filter washes (I want to see how well they work on black) and then the standard burnt umber weather wash.  After that a couple of exhaust streaks and we should be ready to put the remaining parts on and take off the canopy mask.  Looking forward to getting this huge kit done.

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F-4D time to gruby her up

I can’t build a model with pristine paint job.  Ever since I read the one of the Verlinden way book I have gravitated to a burnt umber highlight and wash for almost all of the lits I build.

I have a tube of the color in oil that has lasted me countless weathering sessions.  Sometime I’ll use oil dot filters but that’s another post.

The technique is to make a wash of burnt oil and odorless  turpenoid, run it pretty thin around the aircraft, mostly along the panel lines and details, let it dry and then wipe it off with a paper towel soaked in a little more turpenoid.  You then wipe off the model of mostly ALL of the  wash and stroke it in the direction of the airflow.  Not only does this get in the cracks and highlight them but it also put think brown filer across the paint job.

You can’t really see the filter but it’s subtle enough to slightly change the surface reflectivity and make the model monotone color break up. It also makes the model look a bit more “grubbed” up, not brand spanking new.

Here are a couple of in process shots.

Getting real close to assembly and finish! F-4D weathering 1      F-4D weathering 2