I finished the two desert aircraft just under the 2018 clock. This makes only five models for me this year, off my normal of about 7 – 8.
The Hasegawa Cardoor Typhoon was finished in a rare desert scheme which required I paint a Skyblue “Y” and find other decals. The serial number isn’t correct for this Typhoon and I was too cheap to go buy the decals needed to just have the serial number. I think the British desert scheme turned out very nicely. Vallejo paints with a final overcoat of Testors Dull coat after oil dot weathering and pastels.
The A-20 is the AMT kit built as a “-C”. The markings are based on those found in an A-20 book I have and finally replicated by FCM in their new decal sheet. Paints are all Model Master with the exception of a jar of Floquil Military Colors (Desert Sand) I have had on the shelf for 10+ years waiting to do this scheme.
Here are the photos of the Typhoon and A-20.
What I learned in these builds….
the Blu-tack I use to help with the camouflage demarcation reacts and leaves a residue with Vallejo paints. It can be removed carefully with mineral spirits. The mineral spirit wash also lightens the Vallejo – might be a good weathering tool in the future.
I probably should have penciled in the desert sand over splotches on the A-20 as this would have kept them tighter and more like the original.
Primer straight from the can is best instead of trying to decant it to the airbrush.
Finally, here is the other part of the 2018 set of completions. See you next year;
In conjunction with the Typhoon (previous post), I have been working on painting a desert A-20 Havoc.
The camouflage and markings are what I once heard called reverse lend-lease. When the US got into the war we took back a few of the A-20s we gave to the British.
The camo starts with the standard British Euro bomber colors. This is in contrast to the normal British desert colors used on the Typhoon in the previous post. Instead of Middle Stone / Dark Earth / Azure used on the desert aircraft, the initial colors are Dark Green / Dark Earth / Medium Sea Gray.
When the US took back the A-20s for use in the desert they quickly applied their markings and did a hurry-up camo job to get it desert ready.
The decals from FCM (48051) represent the British marking with US stars and serial numbers painted over the British roundels. The US then oversprayed the whole aircraft with desert sand including parts of the roundels. The markings represent the markings on the old Revell 1/72 A-20 and I have been waiting to do this in 1/48 for a long time. I’m glad FCM created the decals as I was prepared to roll my own and I have even had a jar of desert pink on hand that was never opened until now.
I spent a couple of hours this afternoon overspraying the A-20. After it dries we will be onto a coat of future and weathering.
I finished painting the Typhoon. I’ve been trying to push the end of the year builds so anything that might show up under the tree can be fair game to get started.
I used a combination of things I haven’t tried before; Blu-tack for masking the color boundaries and Vallejo Model Air paint.
The blu-tack is rolled out into long strings and flattened. It is then pressed onto the aircraft as a masking guide for the paint. As you paint along the edge of the blu-tack it forms a soft edge camo separation from the other colors. I used this very effectively on an F-21 Kfir I built a few years back. You can see the article here
A quick update on the Typhoon. (Lots of modeling done this weekend) This is a continuation from post https://wp.me/p3DBTC-iI
The Typhoon required very little seam sanding. I really enjoy those shake and bake kits.
I put the primer in and I have started painting (more on that in next posts).
I have been using Dupli-color automotive primer.
Normally I decant it (spray it into a cup) then use my airbrush. Sometimes this process results in the primer going on way to dry and grainy and in the last set of kits I built this required additional sanding to take out the graininess.
This time I decided what the heck I’ll just spray the primer on straight from the can and Wow! what a nice coat. Goes on thin and dries very smooth – just waiting for paint. No need for sanding this time.
Next, me, Mr. Iwata, and Mr. Vallejo get together for some color!
The A-20 build continues. I am at the point where I need to fill the seams and prime. Although this kit went together well there were a few areas the needed attention
In order to get the nose section to fit the rear section, I needed to glue each respective nose piece to its side of the fuselage. This allows you to align the parts together.
The trade-off is that the nose section no longer closes completely and the transparency on the front which cements to the nose section is suddenly not wide enough. Using a medical clamp I had to squeeze the nose section just ever so slightly and then cemented the canopy on and it mostly fit.
I use Milliput medium grade putty. Mix the two pieces together, apply, take a cotton swab with water and smooth it out, and some light sanding at the end. The application with the cotton swab has made it very easy to get the putty into the places it needs to be without having to do a lot of sanding later. If you look at where the vertical joins the horizontal in this picture you can see a light bit of putty pressed in and smoothed over with a cotton swab.
Finally had to put the gear together before I could add the nacelles which will require some masking over the gear when painting. The gear is very intricate and looks nice once the nacelles are on. There isn’t much else inside the nacelles unless you want to pop for Eduards A-20 interior set.
Put most of the Hasegawa Typhoon together. I forgot that when you are building a single-engine 1/48 fighter how fast the main parts come together.
The Typhoon was engineered by Hasegawa to support many different version of the fuselage and as such there are a number of inserts that get added to the completed fuselage so that it can be a car door Typhoon. As well as I tried I will have a small bit of filing to do to smooth these out. You can see by the photos of those areas.
I assembled the wings using an old trick I learned for the DML (Dragon) Fw-190 kits; glue the wing root of the upper wing half to the fuselage and then glue the wings together. If I had done the instruction way, assemble wing then add to fuselage, I would have had a gap at the root.
Note that the cannon bases in the wing were also split and will require some cleanup as we move along.
Overall doesn’t look like too much work for out of the box. Next post we will go back to the AMT A-20 which is quite another story.
That’s the number of kits I have on the model shelves.
I needed to condense the models on the shelves so that I could get more on them. They were also sharing the space with a lot of cat fur and dust so I decided to take the slew of them down, clean them and the shelves, and put them back on the shelves.
I took these photos of the lot parked on the dining room table, cleaned waiting for clean shelves. I was happy didn’t need to toss any of them.
I built these over about 12 years. I have one in here that is about 25 years old and a complete set of Monogram 1/48 Century Series fighters.